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(First published in Food & Wine in May
2001)
The
film ‘The Beach’ that starred Leonardo di Caprio was based on
the idea that that the author of the book upon which it was based
had discovered the best beach in the world and didn’t really want
to disclose its whereabouts, but couldn’t resist telling about it.
Non-disclosure naturally meant that the Thai tourist industry has
benefited enormously from armies of Leo’s fans determined to track
it down and buy a ‘been there done that’ tee shirt.
Most of have a few places that we treasure and pray that they
don’t become ruined by becoming too popular. They could be beaches
or equally they might be resorts or restaurants. We cork heads even
have a grape variety that we revere, that we think makes the
world’s finest wines, heaven forbid it become too popular, lest we
can’t afford it. By the way, I’m not talking about Chardonnay.
Well
this month’s grape variety should be a secret. Like many other
wine people I extol its virtues yet secretly hope it doesn’t get
so popular that prices rise. My feeling about this grape reminds me
of an old Duckhams Motor oil advertisement some years back. It
involved film of a mechanic messing about with a racing car engine
in the pit lane and then watching the car roar around the track. He
then got in his own car to drive home contented, having of course
topped his oil up with Duckhams. The strap line was something like:
“If you want to know about oil, ask a man who knows about
motors”. The message was that this oil was the choice of the
expert whether at work or play; the choice of the kind of person
that wouldn’t compromise on quality. That’s how many of us feel
about this grape. It’s unquestionably the first choice white
variety of most wine industry professionals. In fact, if you cut the
average wine merchant, he or she would probably bleed the stuff.
This
exceptional grape is certainly the most versatile around. It’s
made into a full-bodied dry wine, usually without oak, but
occasionally with, a low alcohol medium dry style, an intense
botrytis affected dessert wine and a sparkling wine too. It can be
enjoyed young or left to mature and to develop for years. In fact
you’d often be better off laying down a good case of this rather
than claret for that new born. It’s grown in the coolest of
climates as well as the hottest. About the only white style it
doesn’t excel at is fortified, but no doubt somebody is working on
that as I write.
One
of the grape’s most appealing aspects for me is that the wines it
makes are always refreshing, even the sweet ones. It always seems to
retain a tingling freshness however hot the climate it was grown in
and whatever the residual sugar levels. Part of the refreshing
element is also the signature flavour that is always apparent, which
is citrus in the form of lemon or lime. But it often offers much
more than simple fruitiness. There’s frequently a floral character
too, which is what I suspect its detractors dislike. There’s often
a mineral, steely or earthy character too. Wines made from different
vineyards by the same producer will often display marked
differences. It challenges Chardonnay in that respect as a conduit
for expression of terroir.
Age
transforms it too. The first sign of age, puberty if you like, is
the development of honey like aromas and flavours. Next a petrol or
kerosene like aroma develops. This sounds unpleasant but it isn’t.
It prickles the nose slightly, much as occurs when filling ones car
with petrol. And boy does it age. I recall Hugh Johnson writing
about tasting a German wine made from this grape that was almost
four hundred years old. Imagine tasting a wine made from grapes that
grew when Shakespeare was alive. Show me the Chardonnay or even
claret with that kind of lifespan.
Its
original home is likely to be Germany, which is certainly the county
with which most people would associate it. It’s grown throughout
the country but a few styles are deemed the most classic. The
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer valleys with their steep slate covered slopes makes
the most exquisitely delicate examples. The classic style is a
kabinett level wine, which will have around 8% alcohol. It certainly
won’t lack flavour or extract though. Aside from citrus there will
be a granny smith apple character too. Although technically the wine
may be medium dry, it will taste almost dry as the rapier like
acidity will be balanced by residual sweetness from unfermented
juice. Loosen is one of the foremost producers. Probably the nicest
wine that I’ve ever had was a 1983 spätlese from the Goldtröpfchen
vineyard enjoyed in December 1988. I recall heavenly aromas and an
amazing tingling sensation as it skipped across my tongue that
prompted me to comment that it felt like angels were dancing on my
tongue, which probably qualifies me for pseud’s corner, but it was
an incredible sensation.
The
Rheingau is perhaps even more strongly associated with the grape
than the Mosel and the style as you’d expect is different. The
wines are fuller bodied and increasingly drier but with their own
strong mineral character allied to the classic citrus and honey.
Wines from the volcanic soils of the Pfalz further south are once
again distinctively different. They have a quite pronounced spicy
character and are fuller body than their northern cousins, but of
course the grape’s own classic character comes through too.
Lingenfelder and Muller-Catoir are names to look out for there.
Germany’s
neighbours also grow this noble grape and do a more than decent job,
even in Luxembourg. Austria’s best come from the Wachau and are
increasingly catching the eye in international competitions.
Neighbouring Slovakia also makes first-rate examples. Across the
Rhine from Baden and into France on the slopes of the Vosges
mountains in Alsace this grape produces some of the world’s
greatest dry white wines, indeed arguably the very finest. In the
best examples all the traits mentioned; mineral, honey, citrus and
petrol can be found allied to great length. They represent an
exceptional combination of both power and intensity yet remain
delicate and subtle. Trimbach, Blanck, Zind Humbrecht and Faller all
make exemplary wines, as do many others.
In
the rest of Europe Italy has good examples in the Northeast as does
neighbouring Slovenia. Bulgaria has more than Hungary and none yet
appears outstanding. In Iberia it crops up occasionally, notably at
Torres and oddly when in Jerez once I had a wine that was a blend of
it and the local hero Palomino.
In
the New World Australia is the most important exponent of the
variety and until about 15 years ago it was their most widely
planted white grape. The Chardonnay explosion in recent times has
left it behind though. Clare valley including Polish Hill is the epicenter
of the grape’s revival today with some stunning wines
being produced. In this hotter climate the citric flavours take on a
cordial like character and the honey and petrol character can
develop more quickly. Grosset and Mt. Horrocks are two of the best.
Across the Bass Straits New Zealand with its cool climate makes some
terrific examples with Kim Crawford’s being one of the best that I
have tasted recently.
There’s
plenty of it in California but sadly no one seems to take it that
seriously whilst Washington State looks promising. There’s quite a
bit in Argentina but I’ve yet to see any exported, whilst it’s
rare in Chile. South Africa has some but rarely makes a noise about
it.
No
doubt you’re dying to try something made from this wonder grape
and are about to rush to a wine reference book to find its identity.
As this is much easier to find than Leo’s beach I’ll save you
the bother. The very special secret grape is Riesling. By the way
that’s reece-ling, not rise-ling and the Rizling grape is
something else entirely. Whatever you do, don’t buy it or you’ll
spoil it for the rest of us.
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