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(First Published in Wine
Ireland in May/June 04)
The
Russians, Poles and Swedes all lay claim to have invented vodka and in the
14 – 15th century and all of them make superb
spirits but these days there can hardly be a corner of the planet, outside
some of the Muslim countries, that hasn’t got a distillery producing
vodka. Young people it seems will drink little else and as they mature
into martini drinkers they are increasingly sticking with it and trading
up to luxury brands and not ‘grown up’ drinks like whisk(e)y or gin. A
look at the shelves in a spirit specialist like the Celtic Whiskey Shop or
Redmonds of Ranelagh is enough to induce frosty bottle fatigue as
expensive exotic brands vie for our attention. But are they worth the
extra? What makes for expensive vodka other than a fancy bottle?
Vodka
makers universally boast of how their unique production process with
multiple distillations and filtration through diamond dust or Irish or
Siberian charcoal or goodness knows what means that their spirit is the
cleanest or purest around. They should then, presumably, all taste of more
or less nothing. The whole point about vodka then becomes about buying the
brand image, history and packaging. What does it say about me and how cool
I am? Or so I had thought.
The
reality is very different. This tasting for Wine Ireland confirmed just
how remarkably different they all are. Vodka is produced the world over
and can be made from almost anything including wheat, corn, rye, potatoes
or sugar beet. You can batch distil or use a continuous still and as every
whiskey lover knows the size and shape of a batch still impacts uniquely
on the flavour. The source material quite regularly shone through. Corn
gives a popcorn or buttery flavour. Wheat tastes, well er, wheaty not
surprisingly. But sadly the only potato vodka we tried didn’t taste of
mash or chips.
Most
of the standard brands at 37.5 to 38% a.b.v. had the lightest flavours and
hence are most unlikely to interfere with the flavour of your orange
juice, cola or energy drink. The premium and super premium, and some of
them are very very pricey, are at times almost like white whisk(e)y with
their notes of wheat or
butter or orange or liquorice. They are best sipped chilled neat or over
ice or in a martini to make the most of the, at times ,terrific spectrum
of flavours they offer.
How
did we taste? We assembled in the ice Bar at the Four Seasons where bar
manager Dara Cruise lined up an amazing assortment of brands. We sniffed
and sipped each sample undiluted at room temperature and then added an ice
cube to chill and dilute and tried again. We looked for flavours and
smoothness, balance and length. Oh and a pretty bottle and a catch story
can be fun too!
5 Star -
Rain Vodka (Organic) - 40%ABV
Produced from organic Illinois corn at a Kentucky distillery and
distilled four times. Very full flavour with vanilla and popcorn notes on
nose and palate with rich full smooth palate. I love it but it’s too
strongly flavoured I’d reckon for some mixed drinks. (MM)
Pronounced
vanilla aromas just jump out of the glass on this one;
rally aromatic with with white
chocolate, cream of wheataromas; Made
from organic white corn the lovely vanilla flavour screams out of the
glass, really outstanding, well made vodka. (JS)
White chocolate
and vanilla come jumping out of the glass from first sniff. Very unique
taste to this vodka good alcohol taste to begin, excellent white chocolate
and vanilla come through as with the nose which leads to terrific
complexity. Vodka as it should be “sublime”. (DC)
4.5 Star -
Grey Goose (France) - 40% ABV
A distinctive and interesting nose with orange, butter and nut. Smooth
palate. Hard to dislike and easy to see why it’s so successful in the
States. (MM)
Made from 5
different grains including corn the nose is quite restrained.
White chocolate/vanilla aromas on the nose; cream palate with a lovely integrated alcohol. (JS)
Rich nose with
good clear spirit notes. Good alcohol content with excellent smoothness if
light on overall character. Excellent quality vodka that’s scored highly
in many spirits competitions that would not be a personal favourite of
mine. (DC)
4.5 Star -Smirnoff Black Label -
40%
Almost white burgundy like with cream and
nut aromas and flavours and creamy texture. More please. (MM)
Pronounced
grain aromas; creamy aromatic nose. Gorgeous vanilla on the palate with
spicy, nutty flavours; No
alcohol burn. Very, very well made vodka. Very classy! (JS)
4.5 Star –
Wyborowa 40% a.b.v. (Polish)
A 100 % rye vodka with a deliciously full palate of nut, cream,
liquorice and even notes of orange. (MM)
4.5 Star -
Van Hoo Vodka (Belgium) - 40% ABV
Distinctive and interesting nose with orangey citrus and aniseed noted and
rich smooth palate. (MM)
Very aromatic
with lots of orange flavour showing through which is surprising as this is
not a flavoured vodka. Made
from 100% grain neutral spirit it is surprisingly aromatic.
Very smooth and mellow on the palate all the flavours follow
through, again, a weird and wonderful vodka. (JS)
4 Star -
Altai Vodka - 40% ABV (Siberia)
Quite interesting mix of fresh nose and full creamy palate with little or
no burn. (MM)
4 Star -
Absolut Swedish Vodka - 40% ABV
Quite distinctive weetabix like nose with creamy buttery palate. Good
with both mixers or martinis. (MM)
Lovely creamy
tone apparent on the nose, hints of cream of wheat; Lovely length with
well-integrated alcohol and a nice grain flavour.
Creamy and smooth and very well made. (JS)
Sharp
pronounced nose, good grain in there also. Strong grain taste and texture
with a short finish. Overall:
excellent quality, the quality of grain used in distillation brings out
the quality in the product. Best served chilled with tonic (also chilled)
and a wedge of lime. (DC)
4 Star -
Belvedere Vodka - 40% ABV (Polish)
A 100% Polish
Rye vodka named after the Polish president’s residence in a distinctive
frosted bottle that delivers a big but elegant creamy rich flavour. (MM)
Quite a
restrained nose; hints of citrus/creaminess;
Nice oily finish which is surprising;
good heavy weight grain and vanilla flavours. Very well made. (JS)
4 Star -
Skyy Vodla - 40% ABV (USA)
Strong wheat or
grain character on nose with wheaty rich, velvety palate. Good. (MM)
Very subtle
nose, grain aromas, lovely texture on the palate grain
flavours showing through, drier in style; quite smooth. (JS)
Strong pungent
nose with clear scent of grain. Strong alcohol which balances out with
rich grain taste. Vodka of great quality with excellent length.
4 Star -
Stolynichnaya - 37.5% ABV (Russia)
Tasty almost vinous vodka with cream nut and a hint of orange citrus.
Smooth on palate and doesn’t seem to suffer from being lower strength
than used to be. (MM)
Lovely creamy,
coffee, mocha tone, very aromatic on the nose; All the lush flavours
follow through on to the palate. Quite quirky and enjoyable. (JS)
4 Star -
Blackwood Premium Nordic Vodka Ice Filtered - 40% ABV (Shetland)
Very attractive
creamy nose with similar palate. A hint of spirit burn but pretty smooth
over ice with good length. Interesting label that changes colour below 5°C.
(MM)
Very creamy
vanilla aromas with maybe a little "white chocolate" on
the nose. Tons of flavours on
the plate, creamy, with pronounced alcohol which has a slight burn; none
the less this vodka has a gorgeous
flavour. (JS)
Neutral on the
nose with a slight hint of alcohol burn while palate is neutral to begin
with until it opens up with dark creamy notes and a good finish. New into
our market with a good packaging. Good quality taste. (DC)
3.5 Star
Boru Vodka (Irish) - 37.5% ABV
A little cream on the nose that come through again on the palate along
with some liquorice. Not big or distinctively flavoured but well made and
a good spirit for mixing. (MM)
Lovely creamy
nose shows straight away; touch of vanilla with
a hint of liquorish. Alcohol
doesn’t overpower. Well
made Vodka. (JS)
Creamy
nose, slight richness. Dark chocolate on the palate almost liquorish, mild
length. Surprising good quality . (DC)
3.5 Star
Vodka Chopin - 40% ABV (Poland)
A Polish potato vodka with characterful aniseed and cream like notes on
nose and palate with more burn on palate than expected. (MM)
This vodka is
made from potato and has a herbal medicinal nose; The alcohol is
pronounced with liquorish tones and quite a burn from the spirit. (JS)
3.5 Star -
Huzzar Triple Distiller Vodka - 37.5% ABV
Very closed on
the nose, not a lot of aromatics. Much
more elegant on the palate, creamy tones, nice length and lovely well
integrated spirit; Alcohol does not overpower. (JS)
Light
and natural nose with creamy richness to the palate, short length again
slight burn. Good balance to the alcohol. Works well as a standard vodka.
(DC)
3.5 Star -
Krolemska Wodka (Poland) -
42% ABV
Pronounced ‘Croo-Lev-Ska’, translating as ‘Royal Vodka’ and for
all the fancy frosty packaging probably my least favourite of the Polish
Vodkas but not bad nevertheless with subtle citrus and wheat flavours, but
a little too much burn for my liking. (MM)
Lovely
oily texture with aromatic floral tones. Disappointing on the palate,
slightly waxy finish with the alcohol burn dominating. (JS)
3 Star -
Finlandia Vodka - 40% ABV
Lightly aromatic on the nose with a touch of wheat and pepper. Palate
light crisp and clean with maybe a touch of citrus. (MM)
Quite aromatic
on the nose with that earthy wheat/grain aroma showing through.
Disappointing on the palate; a lighter style of vodka. (JS)
Smooth nose
with a little spirity pungent scent. On palate a light early burn fades
towards the end with good clean balance. Good quality vodka, best served
chilled. (DC)
3 Star -
Smirnoff Triple Distilled Premium Vodka No 2 - 37.5% ABV
Little to smell
on the nose except a hint of wheat while clean mid weight palate has a
little heat. Simple clean style for mixing. (MM)
Quite neutral
on the nose, a touch of butter perhaps;
Light vanilla on the palate; alcohol doesn't overpower, clean style
of vodka. (JS)
Neutral
nose with burn on the palate and short length. A. simple vodka which
“does what is says on the tin”. (DC)
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