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Free Run 
- The not so secret diary of a master of wine

People often ask what's it like tasting wine for living. The short answer is that often it's fun. There are plenty of fascinating places and people to visit and of course fabulous and dreadful wines to try. This is an attempt to bring some of it to life given the enormous amount of positive feedback that I got from my diary of an Australian trip with a group of MWs that was published in Food & Wine magazine. - a copy of which is in the articles section of this web site. Relaunched in April 2005, with more comment on wine and probably a bit less on the people as I just don't have the time to write up tasting notes and a diary or blog as these things are called these days.
 
Blog has moved to www.winerepublicblog.typepad.com as it's easier to use an external site especially when traveling.
April 2005 - I haven't gone away you know. Just found it impossible for a while there to write up notes and a diary and earn a living, look after family, repair the house and the hundred and one things that take up my time.
  
Mon April 25th 2005
International Wine Challenge London. Barbican centre in London feels like a car ferry when inside. Very low ceiling covered with pipes and conduits and a balcony over a car deck or rather an exhibition space that is covered in bottles. About 9000+ entries and 6 bottles of each. It looks amazing.

Tasters are a mixed bunch but seem of a higher standard than when I did this first some years ago. I'm designated a super juror and we taste the wines a second time after a panel has looked at them and can move them up or down in ranking if another SJ agrees. While doing a flight of Chateauneuf-du-papes I taste a wine that I would not want to step in. it has the sort of fecal aromas Hanson was taking about in his famous quote about Burgundy. I want to downgrade it but Simon Woods and Owen Bird want to give it a medal and insist it goes through to the medal taste off! I'm amazed as this isn't so much barnyard as open sewer. Clearly there is no accounting for taste. Hopefully it will pass under my nose again and I'll crap on it, as it were.

 

Friday April 22nd 2005
Mitchell & Sons 200th Anniversary Dinner at Trinity college. Ireland's oldest wine retailer celebrated in style. Champagne reception with Montaudon NV - pretty good but shame we can't buy it for €15 as I've seen it in French supermarkets. First course served with Denis Race Chablis 1er Cru Montmains 2002. I hadn't come across Race's wines before Mitchells took them on but there are consistently very good and at times excellent. 

Ch d'Angludet 1995 from magnums was less impressive than hoped and had big bottle variation. Dessert wine was their Gold Graves Supèrieures 2001, which is always much better than you think it should be from an unheralded appellation. 

Worst thing about the evening was the water. I'd forgotten but at a previous dinner here the tap water was all but undrinkable and it still is. It tastes as if is badly corked. Two winemakers have told me that what I'm tasting is geosmin. There seem to be many possible causes but pond algae in the water source is one. Google it for more info.

Everybody got a goody bag with an engraved Riedel 'O' series wine tumbler. I was delighted as I think they are fab and even managed to pick up a spare somebody had decided to leave behind!
 

 
Wednesday April 20th 2005

Excellent dinner at my sister's with an old friend visiting from the USA. Lynch Bages 1995 and E & E Black Pepper Shiraz 1999 should be stellar wines but maybe they were outshone by the company as they seemed merely very good. 
 
Wednesday April 13th 2005
Taste finest New England sparkling wine I've ever had. OK then Westport Rivers Cuvée Maximilian 1991 is the only New England sparkling wine I've ever tried. It's imported by Falcon wines on Achill Island.
  
Tuesday April 12th 2005

A busy day of tastings with 3 to go to. First is Superquinn New World sale preview.. They have as yet never actually invited me to a tasting before and didn't to this one. maybe their PR is bad or maybe I upset somebody but they let me in nevertheless! A mixed bag of wines. Star turn is Veranda from Casablanca in Chile. look out for their Pinot Noir 2002 in particular which will sell for €8.99, down from an RSP of €12.59 when the sale starts on May 11th. it's good at the higher price but stunning at the lower one.

Also at the tasting is a women from RTE radio making a series about taste. John Wilson, Michael Donlon and I oblige by making pouring, gargling and spitting noises and saying how much we love wine. 

Woodford Borne tasting is busy but little grabs my attention except the Bollinger vintage 97. Gorgeous wine but still only a show of the amazing 96 tasted last year.

Sunday April 9th 2005
Two firsts. Broke my newly acquired Riedel Montrachet glass the first time I tried to clean it despite very very carefully following instructions given on Friday by Georg Riedel at his lecture. Thankfully the stemless 'O' series withstand daily use and the dishwasher without mishap. 

Second first was a chardonnay from Westport, M.A. and no, I had no idea they made any drinkable wine there.

 
Saturday April 8th 2005

Taste a Maltese wine for first time in about 7or 8 years. Not bad it's a  Chardonnay/ Ghirgentina 2003 called Medina by Delicato. That G grape is a complete new one to me and not in any reference book I checked!
 
Friday April 8th 2005
Culley Riesling 2004, Marlborough, NZ (88/100)
  from simply wines.ie
goes down a treat on the wine slot on the Moncreiff show, all citrus and mineral and very refreshing. Latter at the National food show Paul Dubsky is showing his Austrian wines and very drinkable they are too particularly a groovy Grü V from Fritz Saloman at only €10.89.
 
Thurs. April 7th 2005
Georg Riedel
visits Dublin and gives a talk and tasting at the RDS member's library. About 100 people have paid €100 each for the gig which isn't so bad considering they all get to take home three giant Sommelier range glasses with a retail value of €175. 

I'd never seen him before although I had done a form of the taste test with Mitchells, Riedel's agent before. Frankly it's freaky that the wines are so different in different glasses. it feels as if the articulate, dapper, charming and smooth talking Mr. Riedel has hypnotized us all  and somebody soon will bark like a dog or burst into tears. Quite amazing. They really do make the most of a wine and you'd be crazy not to get some if you spend more than €10 on a bottle of wine with any regularity.

The downside is the self doubt it induces. Is any note I've ever written of any value after this, if the wine wasn't in the appropriate glass?  Help!

 
Previous Months
November 2003 - tasting cru classé claret with the striped shirts in London.
October 2003 - managed to miss several tasting but still heard the best tasting note on a wine in ages - 'A protestant wine' from an Alsace producer + a wine dinner with the political heavyweights.
September 2003 - An Post ban bottles of wine! Barricades in Belfast and Chileans massing in Dublin.
July and August 2003 - Eating lunch through gritted teeth.
June 03 - Searson's tasting, dinner with Adam Wynn of Mountadam, Dinner with Noel Pinguet of Huet Vouvray and of course the madness and glamour of vinexpo.
12 - 31st May 03 - Fear and Loathing in London, Sopexa Rhone Tasting, Cheers and Auswines 
1 - 11th May 03 - MW 50th anniversary tour of Bordeaux
April '03 - M & S & Burgundy in London
March 03 - Mitchells and Chapoutier.
 
Last updated
14-01-06 06:08 PM


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