Today (6/8/03) on the Dublin Life show on News Talk 106 FM, after the 3pm
news, Martin discussed the SuperValu and Centra supermarket group.
They were the supermarket wine group of the year in Winerepublic
2002, but there have been personnel changes since then and, like
many groups, some rationalisation of product lines. As
a franchise group standards vary across the group, but in my experience most
of the best stores are in Muster. Tralee, Skibbereen and Dingle are all excellent
as are several in and around Cork. In Dublin, Raheny, Kilester and
Deansgrange are good and elsewhere, Athlone, Mullingar and Carickmacross
are better than average. Readers in the UL may note that they now own the
Budgens group and there are some plans for shared buying. Today
in Dublin though they hosted a meet the tasting with the producers of some
of their exclusives, namely Neil Joubert wines from South Africa, Nugan
Estate from Australia and Aresti from Chile. Interestingly
their strategy is to work with real estates rather than have own label or
made up names like Wombat Ridge. White choice was
Joubert Chardonnay 2002, €9.99. 86/100, a well balanced, fruity wine with just enough
oak to add a little depth and spice. Red choice was Nugan
Estate Durif 2001, Manuka Grove Vineyard, €15.99 and rating 89/100.
(Arriving in stores in about 3 - 4 weeks). It's as chunky as an Aussie
rugby league forward but thankfully smoother with plenty of spice adding
interest to the ripe fruit.
Although not tasted on air the Aresti Chilean range were impressive
too and better than any better known brands and the entry level wines at
around €8.99 offer very good value. The wines tasted were mostly new
vintage, all in smart upgraded packaging and will be available in about 4
- 6 weeks.
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Today (30/7/03) on the Dublin Life show on News Talk 106 FM, after the 3pm
news, Martin will be discussing the
most fashionable grapes and wines – what’s in and what’s out. So
don’t miss out if you don’t want to be a social outcast.
Bordeaux and Burgundy are the French classics as timeless and understated
as a Chanel black dress. But big brand Australian chardonnay is probably
in danger of becoming the vinous shell suit - practical, ubiquitous and a
style disaster.
Chardonnay is still hip
though, if it comes from somewhere new and exciting like Central Otago or
Orange.
The trendy white grapes
all seem to be aromatic :
Riesling – but only from Australia and with a screwcap
Albarino – North West Spain and particularly Martin Codex
Verdelho – Australia has fallen in love with it and we love the
Aussies
Pinot Gris – but not the dull Italian ones – look to Oregon or
New Zealand and Australia.
Sauvignon Blanc - but make it a South African and prefereably
Springfield, but a screwcap New Zealander will do.
Viognier –the trendiest grape and championed by Yalumba in Australia and
various Chileans but can still generate excitement in the midi or original
home the Rhone.
My tip for the future
are Italian white grapes like fiano, arneis and greco di tufo
This week’s wine of
the week is Laurent Miquel Viognier 2002 'Nord-Sud'
is €10.99 at Dunnes, 87/100 and is pretty rich with ripe
Williams pear fruit and apricot but finishes fresh.
For reds, size matters.
The Rhone rangers are all hip – that’s to say big spicy reds made
using syrah/shiraz, mourvèdre and grenache are all
popular, as are big Southern Italian reds like primitivo or negroamaro.
However some people are trying to start a backlash and terroir wines from
Southern France are gaining in hipness- so much more elegant than the
Aussie reds. Aussies in turn are heading for the hills and cooler climates
to make more restrained styles.
Avoid merlot though –
as comfortable and as hip as old sweatpants.
Sparkling could and
should be more popular in Ireland but tax is the killer. We can’t afford
to drink it from snipes with a straw as fashion models do in London clubs.
The
single trendiest grape? No question - pinot noir. It’s as
difficult and expensive to work with as Naomi Campbell, but oh what
a stunner when it comes right.
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