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The big names aren’t doing the business for the French and they’ve
lost their no. 1 place in the rankings. Add to that internal bickering and you
have to use the c word Crisis. No I’m not talking about football but wine. As
Ireland jet off to Paris to take on a French team that is no longer regarded as
invincible Martin will discuss the parallel crisis gripping the French Wine
industry on the Sean Moncrieff show on News Talk 106 FM on Friday
24th September at about 3.40pm. The French soccer teams re no longer the world or European
champions. Other countries have over taken them and they are struggling to come
to terms with the changed situation. It ‘s the same with wine. Exports are
down to key markets and in Ireland their market share seems to be on a downward
spiral. In 1990 they had over 50% of the market and at the end of 2002 they had
about 22% and were just number one. The last figures I have seen to April 2004
show the Aussies and Chileans vying for number one spot with 22-23% and the
French 3rd with 14% and
the Americans breathing down their neck with 13.25%. They may well already have
slipped to 4th. Why the decline? The English speaking markets seem in
thrall to the fruity easy charms of the Southern Hemisphere producers. The wines
are easier for novices to enjoy and the labels are easier to understand too.
French wine is perceived as too difficult, too hard to understand, unreliable
and simply rarely fruity enough. Instead of presenting a united front to the world and
coming up with new brands or better promotions the French have spent the last
couple of years bickering. Burgundy and Bordeaux have both had advertising
campaigns banned by the tough alcohol advertising laws. A clamp down on drink
driving has hit domestic sales too. The wine authorities have organised several committees to
come up with new ideas but most have been shot down by vested interests
threatened by change. Now the agriculture ministry has announced new proposals
to come into effect in with the 2006 vintage. The idea it seems is to split the French wine world into
two camps. One, for Appellation Contrôlée wines is product or terroir driven
and the other; Vin de Pays would be market driven. The government has agreed to
petition the EU to allow producers to blend up to 15% of another variety and
vintage into a single-varietal Vin de Pays, and also to permit the use of oak
chips in the vinification of Vin de Pays, all of which are common practice in
the New World. Most controversially they want a large South Western Vin de Pays
region that would encompass Bordeaux where many producers are on the verge of
bankruptcy. The proposed changes should allow more consumer friendly, reliable
bigger brands and allow struggling Bordelaise to perhaps blend in some riper
fruit from further south and to market varietal merlot or cabernet wines in
place of Bordeaux Rouge that no-one seems to want. On the show we’ll taste an example of an
A.C. wine and
a Vin de pays. The former is an excellent Chablis Premier Cru ‘Les Lys’ 2001
by Bernard Defaix, imported by Probus Wines and retailing in their shops in
Oughterard,and
Moycullen, Co. Galway at around €20-21 and rated 91/100. They’ll deliver to
Dublin or the wine can be ordered through the Wicklow Wine Company (0404 66767).
The Vin de pays will be illustrated by Marcus Grenache/Syrah, Vin de Pays d’Oc
from O’ Briens at €8.99. It’s a modern fruity lightly spicy style rated at
87/100 and a fine alternative to drinking say a Jacobs Creek Grenache – Shiraz
for about the same money. France has an extraordinary wine heritage and diversity of wine styles at every price. Perhaps it’s time you took another look if you are one of those who have deserted her for the easy charms of Australia or Chile. But lets hope we all get the chance to celebrate an Irish victory in Paris with our national drink, a pint of Guinness!
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