Think of gin and what do you
think of? Mother’s ruin and Hogarth’s Gin Alley; middle aged men in
clashing clothes in golf clubs; zesty citrus and juniper erupting out of a
glass on a summer’s day to quench your thirst. Hopefully it’s more of
the latter as gin tries to find a 21st century role. Vodka and
white rum sales have shot up in recent years and gin has trailed along
behind but they are trying hard to make it more relevant. Following on
from the success of super-premium vodkas and flavoured vodkas there’s
surely a niche for a drink that some might construe as a premium flavoured
vodka in its own right. Martin discusses gin on the Dublin life show today
(12/5/04) on News Talk 106FM.
There are several new gins available in
the last couple of years such as Tanqueray Ten, Hendricks and Blackwood
all of which are trying to inject some glamour and sex appeal into a
drinks sector dominated for decades or rather centuries by old favourites
Cork Dry and Gordon’s. The mold breaker was Bombay Sapphire with its
distinctive Blue glass.
What all of these gins have in common is
a lighter more elegant style with the citrus elements increased ad juniper
toned down a bit. Cynics say they are made to appeal to younger vodka
drinkers who might be frightened off by the more strongly flavoured older
brands.
Gin’s roots lie in Holland.
It was probably popularised in London by a Dutch doctor called Dr
Sylvius looking to combine the diuretic qualities of juniper and the
medicinal qualities of spirit trying to find a cure for fevers attacking
Dutch settlers in the East Indies. William of Orange introduced it to
Britain and British soldiers in Holland acquired a taste for it while
fighting in Holland in the 17th century, hence the term
‘Dutch Courage’.
William of Orange allowed anyone to
distil with the result that almost anyone did. Consumption of spirits
rocketed and by the time of the Gin Act of 1736, which introduced stricter
licensing and production controls, consumption had reached the estimated
equivalent of 14 gallons per adult male!
Gin palaces developed in the 1830s as
competition for beer houses. Gin was heavily taxed whilst beer wasn’t
taxed at all at that time so needed to offer extra inducement to
London’s poor who would no doubt have found the luxurious surrounding
quite extraordinary.
On the show today we’ll be tasting 3
gins that highlight the new and old styles. Here are my tasting notes:
Tanqueray No 10 - 47.3% ABV, €64.99
per litre bottle (Celtic Whiskey Shop)
Interesting citrus dominated nose with floral and juniper notes too
leads to a spectacular palate. It’s high alcohol but doesn’t really
burn and the citrus comes through as orange and the textures is creamy and
more-ish with great length. Superb.
Cork Dry Gin - 38% ABV, €22-23,
(Widely available)
One sniff and you’re home. Close you’re eyes and you’re on an
Aer Lingus jet heading for Dublin. Most distinctive juniper and
liquorice-dominated nose which many will adore and others will find too
much. Palate manages richness and length despite only being 38% a.b.v.
(MM)
Blackwood’s Superior Nordic Dry Gin
- 40% ABV, €31.99 per 70cl (Celtic Whiskey Shop)
Interesting aromatics on nose with floral and herbal notes. Palate a touch
raw at first but ice smoothed it. Good length. (MM)
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