It’s
hip in New York and loved in London so how long can it be before Austrian
Grape Grüner Veltliner or Grü Ve is popular in Dublin? There was a major
Austrian tasting this week and Martin will be discussing
it on News Talk 106FM’s Dublin Life show today (18/2/2004) after the 3pm.
The
Austrians were in town this week promoting their wares and I have never
been to a tasting where so many exhibiting producers were ‘seeking
representation’. Austrian wine is as hard to find in Ireland as water in
a desert. The odd oasis aside, it just isn’t out there.
Problems
probably stem back to the anti freeze scandal of the mid eighties which
saw them disappear from our shelves, but that is surely by now
ancient history, Today it’s probably due to high prices, unfamiliar
grapes and Teutonic labels. The
topography of the county doesn’t lend itself to large scale mechanised
farming so prices can rarely be low but that shouldn’t matter if the
wines are good and there are certainly some delicious wines to be had.
Unfamiliar grapes are another issue and perhaps a strength. 75% of
production is white and Grüner Veltliner is the most widely planted
variety. It has become very trendy in New York as people look for a ‘new
chardonnay’ and has come out well in lots of magazine blind tastings
there. There’s no question that it can be good or even very good but I
don’t buy the idea that it can be top rank as some observers suggest. It
has an intriguing peppery note which, as a fan of syrah, I enjoy but I
didn’t taste anything that would have them panicking in Meursault let
alone Montrachet.
Rieslings
can be fabulous in a drier more full-bodied style than German equivalents
– more Alsace like in fact. Another widely grown grape is welschriesling,
which is frankly dull at best. They are proud of their reds and there are
no doubt some good wines to be had but it’s hard to make a
generalisation as to what to try. Familiar grapes like cabernet, merlot
and pinot noir can be found but there are more local names to juggle with
such as St. Laurent and Zweigelt, which don’t really mean much to most
of us and didn’t really turn me on.
Lastly
there’s no getting away from the fact that they speak German and
thankfully the smarter producers have opted for simple clear labelling.
Impossible to pronounce names in gothic script are a kiss of death, even
if the wine is wonderful.
A
few producers impressed. Loimer imported by Liberty were excellent.
Michael’s wines of Mt Merrion list their distinctively packaged Lois GV
for €11.95 and that would be a good starting point for novices.
Searson’s have long ploughed a lonely furrow selling the wines of Freie
Weingartner of the Wachau and their Riesling
Smaagd 2000, €23.99, 92/100 will be featured on the show
today and that score is higher than it got last summer so it’s improved
with time. It has lovely classic ethereal petrol and lime notes with
earthy mineral character. Terroirs in Donnybrook list a range of wines
from Johanneshof and prices have come
down to the point where they can sell JR Dialog
2002 for just €9.99, 86/100 which is also featured on the
show. It’s a blend of chardonnay and sauvignon blanc that has plenty of
peachy fruit and freshness.
Austria’s
number one supporter in Ireland has to be Paul Dubski at www.pauldubsky.com
who sells a large range by mail order, some of which are keenly
priced. Another interesting venture is www.wineselect.at
run by Austrian based Dubliner Michael Harrison who offers a wide range of
wines and is storing wine here to sell to the public and restaurateurs.
|
