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The days are short and the mercury is dropping so it’s time to start
cooking rib sticking stews and opening hearty reds that serve as liquid
central heating. On the Moncreiff show today (23/11/07) on News Talk
106-108FM we’ll be looking at winter warming with higher levels of
alcohol from around 3.20pm.
Numbers
are important, as any numerologist or lotto player will tell you and while
some like to paint by numbers, when the weather turns cold some us like to
drink by numbers. It’s time to look at the small print to see if that
red wine is 12 or 13 or 14 or even 15% alcohol by volume (abv). If hot
summer days call for a lighter refreshing wine or a spritzer, then cold
dark winter nights seem to demand that we light a fire, draw the curtains,
heat up a stew and pop the cork or screwcap on something that will deliver
a rich and satisfying, lasting flavour. That generally means a red,
although you could argue that many whites are 14% abv or more these days
too and let's not forget the charms of an oloroso sherry.
Certain
red grape varieties tend to deliver the required numbers, that is to say
that they are suited to warm climates and really only ripen properly when
they have enough sugar to create 13% abv or more.
Southern France has an abundance of these varieties but none are
more important than the holy trinity of grenache, syrah and mourvèdre
(GSM). This blend is popular throughout the Southern Rhône,
most famously at Châteauneuf-du-pape, but also in appellations like Corbière
and Minervois, where you will also find grapes like carignan and cinsault.
Increasingly
in France you’ll even see these grapes as single varietal vin de pays
wines too. Oddly in the New World where the single variety generally
rules, increasing numbers of producers are creating so called GSM blends.
Californians have named these producers ‘the Rhone Rangers’ and Bonny
Doon is perhaps the best known of them. In Ireland though you are more
likely to see such blends sourced from Australia and from Mclaren Vale and
Barossa in particular.
The
highest level you can import is, I think, 15% abv as at 15.5% abv or above
the wine moves into the higher fortified wine tax bracket, but on visits
to Mclaren Vale I have tried wines at 16 or 16.5%. Oddly these behemoths
aren’t always overpowering and unbalanced, not do they always burn the
lips or throat. I shall never forget tasting one day at Noons and writing
a note that described a wine as elegant only to be told it had 15.9%abv! I
have certainly had more unbalanced wines that were only 12%abv as their
natural sugars had augmented by adding plain old sugar from a bag to bump
their alcohol up from say 10%.
Another
Aussie red that you might occasionally spot is the Durif variety, also
labelled in the USA as petite sirah, which makes robust sometimes rustic
reds with high alcohol. In America the grape has a fan club called ‘PS I
love you’. Now I wish I’d thought of that. But America’s real gift
to this category is Zinfandel. Steer clear of early picked sweet blush
versions at 10-11%abv and look for the full-bodied red versions. It’s a
variety that has bunches that ripen unevenly, so at harvest some grapes
may be just ripe and others may already have started to raisin. The final
total sugars can create monster wines and indeed it is sometimes used to
create port style wines.
Speaking
of raisins, Italy has a fascinating contribution here with Valpolicella
Amarone. While basic Valpol can be anaemic, Amarones are made by drying
bunches of grapes on racks in barns to raise sugar concentrations before
fermentation with final alcohol levels usually at 14.5-15% abv.
Valpolicella Ripasso is a sort of half way house between the two at around
13.5%. Elsewhere in Italy search for a Barolo or Barbaresco made from the
nebiolo grape for wines with a punch. Southern Italy and Sicily are awash
with excellent value and quality wines from indigenous grapes like nero
d’avola, primitivo (aka zinfandel) and aglianico that lap up the
sunshine that ends up as alcohol.
Spain and Portugal
also have their local heroes too of course and the native varieties to
deliver an interesting flavoursome punch. My favourites from Portugal
usually involve the touriga nacional from the Douro, which means they are
essentially unfortified ports. Tempranillo is versatile and also grown in
the Duoro but performs better over the border in Spain, particularly in
Ribero del Duero, making perhaps Spain’s most exciting reds. Toro reds
from the same grape can be even brawnier, but never as good. In southern
Catalonia Priorat’s reputation is on a high with potent wines made using
combinations of grenache and carignan with a little syrah cabernet and
merlot.
Staying
in Europe don’t forget Greece and check out the selection of wines at
Oddbins for some real hearty gems from local varieties like Agiorghitiko.
Naturally climates like those enjoyed in South Africa and South America
don’t have a problem ripening grapes with high levels of sugar so you
can expect to see large numbers in the small print at the bottom of their
labels. The variety that tends to do this best in the Cape and also in
Chile is Syrah or Shiraz. There’s plenty of cabernet and merlot about
too but they seem to lose their shape and make less interesting wines
above about 13.5 % in most cases. Not saying it can’t be done, but
it’s harder. Better to look for, if not a shiraz, then malbec in
Argentina or carmenère in Chile.
Most of the wines described here are not cheap as this isn’t about
getting the most units of alcohol for your euro or bang for your buck but
about discovering full throttle flavours. You should of course always
enjoy wine sensibly.
Note that these 14.5% abv wines contain nearly 11 units of alcohol per
bottle.
Wines
Tasted on the Show
Torbreck
Old Vines GSM 2005,
14.5% abv, O’Briens Off-licence group, €12.99, reduced from €19.99. Chock
full of peppery, plum and strawberry fruit with a delicious smooth
lingering palate. 89/100
Betani
Valpolicella 2002,
14.5% abv, O’Briens Off-licence group, €29.99. Pretty classic stuff
with mouth filling, chewy cherry flavours, firm tannins and structure and
very good length. Don't even think of drinking without food. 90/100.
De
Martino Legardo Reserva Syrah 2005,
14.5% abv, imported by Febvre and available through independent
off-licences such as Fallon & Byrne, Donnybrook Fair, Bon No. 9,
Clonskeagh and Claudio’s George’s St at about €15.49.
I've tried a few excellent Syrah/Shiraze from Chile recently such as
the EQ at Superquinn but nothing remotely this good at this price. This is
very modern sleek stuff with spicy notes, concentrated red currant and
blackberry fruit and mocha notes that could come from a good Mclaren Vale
shiraz and excellent acidity and structure. The Aussies should be looking
over their shoulders. 90/100.
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