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Wine Reviews |
Wine Ratings
& Price Guide
I score for quality out of 100. For
further details of what these scores mean and,
lets be honest, my own preferences, so that you can interpret
them. click here. Pricing
is given as a guide only For further info on the various brackets click
here.
Importers - Contact details for Irish importers
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| All Conquering
Aussies |
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It’s
been a big year for the Australians. In both Ireland and the UK, they have
overtaken or are about overtake the French as the largest volume supplier.
These are incredible growth figures considering a decade or so ago the
French had almost a 50% share and were miles in front. Success invariably
brings a backlash and there are plenty who criticise the Australians and
the critics who praise them for creating simplistic, jammy wines in a kind
of coca cola style conquering of the wine world. It’s a crass
simplification of course. Even at the entry level Australian wine has more
vinous credentials than Liebfraumilch, which destroyed the image of German
wine. At the top end, the best are simply sensational, offering thrilling
taste sensations. In between
there are a growing number of varieties and increasingly assured regional
identities. Australian wine hasn’t peaked yet by a long way.
This
spring, at a few different major tastings, I concentrated on the finer
wines, mostly shiraz based and newer grape varieties. There are more
ambitiously priced shiraz wines than ever. Exile by Bordeaux based Brit
Jonathan Maltus is set to become the most infamous of them, due into the
market at about €180 per bottle next year. It might be a case of the
emperor’s new clothes if it wasn’t such a stunning wine, but it's as good and
better than just about anything from down under that I’ve ever tried.
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Annies
Lane Riesling 2002 , €C
, 89
Lovely lean citrus style. (Irl: u/n) (UK Beringer Blass +44 (0)20 8843 8411)
Annies Lane Semillon 2002,
€C
, 87
Attractive pungent lemon and lime fruit. (Irl: u/n) (UK Beringer Blass +44
(0)20 8843 8411)
Annies Lane Shiraz 2000, €D,
87
Good plum and cherry fruit. (Irl: u/n) (UK Beringer Blass +44 (0)20 8843
8411)
Antipodean Petit Verdot
2001, €?
Antipodean seems to be Yalumba’s off beat label with nouveau (to Australia
anyway) grape varieties. This is dark and intense with prune and liquorice fruit
and fair length. (Irl: CD) (UK: Negociants UK +44 (0)1582 462859).
Antipodean
Pinot Gris 2001, €u/n,
87
Quite interesting with good varietal character with its nut, melon and orange
fruit. (Irl: CD) (UK: Negociants UK +44 (0)1582 462859).
Antipodean
Sangiovese Rose 2002, €u/n,
84
Soft simple raspberry style. (Irl: CD) (UK: Negociants UK +44 (0)1582
462859).
Brown
Brothers Barbera 2001,
€C
, 87
Light nose but tightly knit, well-structured palate with prune and liquorice
fruit. (Irl: WB) (UK: Brown Bros. Europe +44 (0)1628 776446)
Brown
Brothers Family Reserve Chardonnay 1997, €D,
89
The family reserve range get aged before release, which is rare enough in this
day and age and it has benefited, as a layer of nutty toasty elements have
developed alongside the melon and tropical fruit associated with this variety in
Australia. (Irl: WB) (UK: Brown Bros. Europe +44 (0)1628 776446)
Brown
Brothers Family Reserve Noble Riesling 1999,
€E,
94
Sweet wines seem to be a Brown Bothers speciality and this is fabulous with its
intense apricot, toffee and honey palate with a finish that lasts minutes. (Irl:
WB) (UK: Brown Bros. Europe +44 (0)1628 776446)
Brown
Brothers Family Reserve Riesling 1998, €F,
92
Riesling is clearly something Brown Brothers do very well indeed. Age has
brought this to a beautiful peak and given it an ethereal character that just
has you sniffing and sniffing the petrol, honey and lemon notes. Good length and
years of life yet. (Irl: WB) (UK: Brown Bros. Europe +44 (0)1628 776446)
Brown
Brothers Graciano 1999,
€D,
88
We don’t see much (any?) varietal graciano, which is usually found in Rioja.
Perhaps we should if it’s as nice as this with its plum, prune, and cedar
flavours and good length. (Irl: WB) (UK: Brown Bros. Europe +44 (0)1628
776446)
Brown
Brothers Liqueur Muscat NV,
€F,
91
Has an average age of about 8 years they say and its intense and complex with
flavours like a liquid bar of fruit and nut chocolate and much more besides. Why
don’t Woodford Bourne import it? (Irl: WB) (UK: Brown Bros. Europe +44
(0)1628 776446)
Brown
Brothers Nebbiolo 1998,
€D,
87
Like an old fashioned Barolo with very light colour showing browning plus brutal
tannins and meaty fruit. (Irl: WB) (UK: Brown Bros. Europe +44 (0)1628
776446)
Brown
Brothers Orange Muscat & Flora 2001, €C,
87
Justifiably popular in restaurants with its intense marmalade aromas, sweet
fruit and cleansing acidity. (Irl: WB) (UK: Brown Bros. Europe +44 (0)1628
776446)
Brown
Brothers Shiraz Mondeuse & Cabernet 1996 , €F,
89
Held back to allow bottle development, so there was sediment in my sample but
that shouldn’t stop you enjoying this rich wine with its chocolaty fruit and
slightly leathery edge brought on by age. Very good length too. (Irl: WB)
(UK: Brown Bros. Europe +44 (0)1628 776446)
Brown
BrothersTarrango 2002, €C,
85
Australia’s answer to Beaujolais with it raspberry and pepper fruit. Serve it
cold. (Irl: WB) (UK: Brown Bros. Europe +44 (0)1628 776446)
Chandon
Australia NV, €G,
87
Tony Jordan is far too polite to admit that this is better than the fizz made by
parent company Moët
in France, but it consistently is, with it’s lightly biscuity elegant style. (Irl:
FV) ) (UK: Moet Hennessey +44 (0) 207235 9411)
Clonakilla
Canberra District Shiraz 2001, €G,
93
Australia’s answer to Côte Rôtie with its perfume and persistence. Flavours
are dark raspberry and white pepper. It’s not a blockbuster, but it’s
beautiful and in the vanguard of new wave ‘elegant ‘ Australian shiraz. (Irl
& UK: Liberty – info@libertywine.co.uk)
Clonakilla
Hilltops Shiraz 2001, €F,
91
Ethereal perfumed elegant nose with bacon and white pepper plus a touch of
menthol cherry fruit. (Irl & UK: Liberty – info@libertywine.co.uk)
Coriole
Lloyd Reserve Shiraz 1999, €G,
93
A stunning nose of cherry, perfume and pepper that grabs you and makes you want
to sniff again and again and the palate delivers too by succeeding with the
great balancing act of mouth filling intensity, good length and not overwhelming
or becoming jammy. (Irl: WD) (UK: Seckford +44 (0)1394 446633)
Coriole
Mary Kathleen 1999, €G,
91
A good Irish name would help it in the Irish market, but so does the
terrifically classy ripe Bordeaux like fruit with its ripe cherry and
blackcurrant and balancing acidity that keeps it fresh. (Irl: WD) (UK:
Seckford +44 (0)1394 446633)
Coriole
Sangiovese 200I, €D,
87
This shares its Italian relative’s tendency toward cherry and spice flavours
with a bit of bite, only a little cleaner purer fruit as the Australian always
manage. (Irl: WD) (UK: Seckford +44 (0)1394 446633)
Craiglee
Chardonnay 2001, €F,
88
Mid weight and length in an elegant style. (Irl DW). (UK: Morris & Verdin
+44 (0)20 7921 5300)
Craiglee
Shiraz 2000, €G,
88
Highly rated by many, this is made in an elegant style that at times veers
toward the slightly light for me. Other Aussies do elegant too and get more
persistence. (Irl DW). (UK: Morris & Verdin +44 (0)20 7921 5300)
Cullen
Wines Mangan 2001, €F,
89
A blend of malbec, petit verdot and merlot, which is interesting and so is the
wine with its pitch black colour and spicy liquorice fruit overlaying some plumy
fruit. There’s 14% a.b.v. and it takes no prisoners, so may be too much for
the faint hearted. (Irl & UK: Liberty – info@libertywine.co.uk)
Cullen
Wines Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2001, €D,
88
Herbaceous, clean gooseberry and lemon fruit. (Irl & UK: Liberty – info@libertywine.co.uk).
d’Arenberg
D’Arry's Original Shiraz / Grenache
2000, €D , 88 - 89
It’s hard to believe that this silky supple wine has 14.5 abv. It’s the
perfect answer to those who say such things are unbalanced. It has a beguiling
mixture of strawberry, raspberry and chocolate (this is Mclaren vale after all)
and excellent length. (Irl:
TS) (UK:
Bibendum +44 (0)20 7448 4110).
d’Arenberg Galvo Garage Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/ Caberent Franc 2001,
€E , 91
Their take on what the Californans would call a meritage blend but Osborne is
more imaginative. Intense dark blackcurrant fruit with notes of mint, and
chocolate and nut and liquorice with good structure and length.
(Irl:
TS) (UK:
Bibendum +44 (0)20 7448 4110).
d’Arenberg The Broken Fishplate Sauvignon Blanc 2002, €D
, 86
Pungent , herbaceous gooseberry plus melon, in the manner of a half decent
Chilean. (Irl:
TS) (UK:
Bibendum +44 (0)20 7448 4110).
d’Arenberg The
Coppermine Road Cabenet Sauvignon 2000, €G , 91
A
very smart wine with ripe blackcurrant varietal character, as you’d expect –
cabernet always delivers that, but also a structure and length that adds up to a
very classy wine.
(Irl:
TS) (UK:
Bibendum +44 (0)20 7448 4110).
d’Arenberg The
Custodean Grenache 1999, €D, 88
Textbook grenache with its rich mellow strawberry flavours and soft texture. (Irl:
TS) (UK:
Bibendum +44 (0)20 7448 4110).
d’Arenberg The
Dead Arm Shiraz 2000, €G, 94
Another winner that confirms the
stature of this wine. A truly enticing nose of white pepper with chocolate, nut
and liquorice supported by a big but not massively structured, elegant even in
this context, palate that echoes the flavours of the nose. (Irl:
TS) (UK:
Bibendum +44 (0)20 7448 4110).
d’Arenberg The
Dry Dam Riesling 2001, €C,
89.
As ever it’s an elegant style with mineral notes complementing the lime zesty
character. (Irl:
TS) (UK:
Bibendum +44 (0)20 7448 4110).
d’Arenberg
The Hermit Crab Marsanne Viognier 2002, €C
, 90
Once again chester osborne shows his mastery of Rhone varietals. Like the
2001 this is muted on the nose but has a hugely characterful palate showing
nuts, apricot and williams pears and a rich soft almost oily texture. (Irl:
TS) (UK:
Bibendum +44 (0)20 7448 4110).
d’Arenberg
The High Trellis Cabernet Sauvignon 2000,
Mclaren Vale/Cooonawarra, €D, 88
Rich, ripe blackcurrant with a touch of mint and toffee with an easy, smooth
texture. (Irl:
TS) (UK:
Bibendum +44 (0)20 7448 4110).
d’Arenberg
The Last Ditch Viognier 2002, €C
, 91
Another very succesful vignier from d’Arenberg, although a touch less
brilliant than the 2001. Excellent varietal character of apricot and pear is
supported by a nutty oak adding weight to a well structured wine. (Irl:
TS) (UK:
Bibendum +44 (0)20 7448 4110).
d’Arenberg The
Laughing Magpie Shiraz Viognier 2001, €D , 92
Another outstanding vintage of this Côte Rôtie style blend of Shiraz blended
with a little viognier. There’s a violet perfume and elegant cherry fruit and
great length, but never threatens to overwhelm. (Irl:
TS) (UK:
Bibendum +44 (0)20 7448 4110).
d’Arenberg The
Money Spider Roussanne 2002., €C, 88
Tighter than the 2001 , but shares the same characteristics of nuts and lemon in
the flavour spectrum and good length. Structure suggests it will age well. (Irl:
TS) (UK:
Bibendum +44 (0)20 7448 4110).
d’Arenberg The Noble Riesling 1999 375ml, €G, 93
Just about as good as you hope it would be. Germans should be worried that
Australia can make such intense, dessert styles with honey, apricot, fig and
acleansing finish. (Irl:
TS) (UK:
Bibendum +44 (0)20 7448 4110).
d’Arenberg The
Stump Jump Grenache/Shiraz 2001, €C, 87
Dark wine with attractively vibrant berry fruit and a dusting of oak. (Irl:
TS) (UK:
Bibendum +44 (0)20 7448 4110).
d’Arenberg The
Stump Jump Riesling / Marsanne / Sauvignon 2002 , €C, 86
Fragrant citrus on nose and palate, fair length. (Irl:
TS) (UK:
Bibendum +44 (0)20 7448 4110).
d’Arenberg The Twenty-Eight Road Mourvedre 2000, €E, 91
An impressive wine with intense rich
flavours of dark fruits and spicy liquorice or soy like flavour. (Irl:
TS) (UK:
Bibendum +44 (0)20 7448 4110).
d’Arenberg Vintage
fortified shiraz 2000, €F, 95
As good as almost anything that you’ll find in the douro and better than most.
Ths wine’s ethereal flavours last forever. It’s intense, well structured,
rich, and sweet with blackberry, chocolate and soy or liquorice spice. Leave it
a couple of years to peak. (Irl:
TS) (UK:
Bibendum +44 (0)20 7448 4110).
Ellen
Landing Petit Verdot 2000, €C,
87
Dark spicy fruit with pepper and liquorice and mid to good length. (Irl: u/n)
(UK: Patriache: +44 (0) 20 7381 2023).
Émigré
2002, Barossa , €G,
(92-94)
A shiraz, grenache, mourvedre (mataro), muscadelle blend made by Bordeaux based
Brit Jonathan Maltus that will be highly priced and highly sort when released.
It’s a big wine with a range of components that are still jostling around in
the glass but will settle down in time. Cherry, prune, pepper, mint, nuts cedar,
15 + % alcohol and more all vie for your attention. (All Irl: GB) (Brtn:
Berry Brothers)
Exile
2002, Barossa, €G,
(96-100)
Ambitious new wine, not yet released, by Le Dôme’s Jonathon Maltus. Set to be
similarly priced to Grange, it just may turn out to be the best Australian red
I’ve ever tried. It’s essence of Barossa with heavenly perfumed nose of
fruit and spice with cherry, cedar, berry and white pepper. The palate is
fabulous with cherry, tar, pepper, tea, and spice and is unfeasibly long. It’s
over 15% a.b.v. and yet avoids jamminess or burn. 92% shiraz and 8% mourvedre,
dry grown fruit from a vineyard part of which dates back to the 19th
century. (Irl: GB) (GB: Berry Brothers)
Fermoy
Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1999, €F,
90
There’s plenty of cassis and it’s starting to gain a little complexity too,
which combined with its excellent length augers well. (Irl: TS) (UK: Vinus
Vita +44 (0) 1225 322 815)
Fermoy
Estate Semillon 2000, €C,
86
Clean lime fruit, mid to good length. (Irl: TS) (UK: Vinus Vita +44 (0) 1225
322 815)
Fermoy
Estate Semillon Reserve 2000, €F,
88
Unusually for my taste, an oaked Semillon that works as it adds weight and nutty
flavours that are fairly well integrated to the herbaceous lime fruit. (Irl:
TS) (UK: Vinus Vita +44 (0) 1225 322 815)
Ferngrove
Cossack Riesling 2001, €C,
89
Fragrant, lemon, lime and orange. (Irl: u/n) (UK: Vinus Vita +44 (0) 1225 322
815)
Ferngrove
Shiraz 2001,
€C,
88
Good value wine with impressive fruit, structure and length. (Irl: u/n) (UK:
Vinus Vita +44 (0) 1225 322 815)
Fox
Creek JSM Shiraz Cabernet Franc 2000, €G,
89
Attractive wine with chocolate/ cherry fruit and creamy vanilla fruit and quite
good length. (Irl: MK) (UK: Noel Young +44 (0)1223 844744).
Fox
Creek Reserve Shiraz 2000, €G,
93
Consistently my favourite of the Fox Creek range, the 2000 has a fragrant nose
of pepper and dark fruits while the palate has an array of intense flavours
including bacon, pepper and berry fruit and it’s oh so looooong. (Irl: MK)
(UK: Noel Young +44 (0)1223 844744).
Green
Point Sparkling 1998, €G
(E), 89
Full with biscuity nose, with a rich long palate. (Ir: FV) (UK: Moet
Hennessey +44 (0) 207235 9411)
Grosset
- Hill Smith Mesh Eden Valley Riesling 2002 (Stelvin), €G
(E), 89
A coming together of two acknowledged experts, who each made a batch of wine
their way from neighbouring rows of vines and then blended them together. No
doubt each was convinced of the superiority of their vinification but the
outcome is a fine wine, quite big, yet elegant with chalky mineral and lemon
peel character and good length. (Irl:
u/n) (UK: Negociants UK +44 (0)1582 462859).
Grosset
Vineyard Gaia 2000,
€G,
88
Quite an elegant Bordeaux style blend with mellow fruit and a fragrant tobacco
like edge that puts it on a par with a 4th or 5th growth for me. (Irl:DW)
(UK: Milton Sandford +44 (0)1628 829449).
Grosset
Vineyard Pinot Noir 2000, €G,
88
Fair varietal character with cherry and strawberry but also menthol, which is
less welcome. A sheen of French oak adds spice and it has mid to good length. (Irl:
DW) (UK: Milton Sandford +44 (0)1628 829449).
Grosset
Vineyard Polish Hill Riesling 2002 (stelvin), €G,
92
Probably Australia’s best-known riesling and justifiably so as this is really
classy with fragrant lime and orange zest on the nose and palate, mineral
character, marmalade and great length. (Irl: DW) (UK: Milton Sandford +44
(0)1628 829449).
Jansz
of Tasmania Non Vintage Cuvee, €G,
87
Very elegant buttery, biscuit and melon fruit that’s much better than many
basic real Champagnes. (Irl: u/n) (UK: Negociants UK +44 (0)1582 462859).
Jim
Barry The Armagh Shiraz 2000, €G,
93
Complex, intense nose with a mix of toast, berry, coffee and nut. The palate has
a huge amount of rich fruit yet just pulls back from jamminess in time and lasts
for ages. (Irl: CD) (UK: Negociants UK +44 (0)1582 462859).
Jim
Barry The Lodge Hill Riesling 2002 (Stelvin), €u/n,
89
The first white by Jim Barry that I’ve tried. It’s quite delicate with
mineral and lemon and lime. (Irl: CD) (UK: Negociants UK +44 (0)1582 462859).
Jim
Barry The Lodge Hill Shiraz 2001, €u/n,
89
A new line to me. This uses French oak giving weight to some cherry scented
fruit. It’s big but just about balanced. (Irl: CD) (UK: Negociants UK +44
(0)1582 462859).
Jim
Barry The McRae Shiraz 2000, €G,
91
Very different to the Armagh with spicy smoked meats and black pepper to the
fore with great length. (Irl: CD) (UK: Negociants UK +44 (0)1582 462859).
Katnook
Estate Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon 1998, Coonawarra, €G,
90
120% new oak, which means that they put it all in new oak and then took 20% of
it out and put in new barrels again after several months! All that plus its
origins in Coonawarra plus a famous vintage and a high price mean it should be
really special. I find it very good with ripe fruit, tobacco scents and toasty
oak but not as I and perhaps they hoped. (Irl: WD) (UK: Bibendum +44 (0)20
7448 4110)
Katnook
Estate Prodigy Shiraz 1999, Coonawarra, €G,
92
Prodigy works better than its partner Odyssey for me. It too gets the 120% oak
treatment but the fruit is richer and more concentrated. (Irl: WD) (UK:
Bibendum +44 (0)20 7448 4110).
Katnook
Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2002, Clare,€D,
89
As ever this has pungent gooseberry and passion fruit in the style of a kiwi
sauvignon blanc and very good it is too. (Irl: WD) (UK: Bibendum +44 (0)20
7448 4110).
Kilikanoon
‘Prodigal' Grenache 2000, Clare, €G,
90
Well balanced, elegant strawberry fruit with liquorice and cedar like spice from
oak. Good length. (Irl: n/i) (UK: Thorman Hunt +44 (0)20 7735 6511)
Kilikanoon
'Covenant' Shiraz 2000, Clare, €G,
93
Very concentraged dollop of dark fruit with explosive palate oozing smoked bacon
and black pastille like fruit that is just about prevented from becoming
overblown by some ripe tannins. (Irl: n/i) (UK: Thorman Hunt +44 (0)20 7735
6511)
Kilikanoon
Mort’s Block Riesling 2002, Clare, €u/n,
92
Only founded in 1997, but by people with a long history in Clare, this new label
astonishingly won 6 out of 7 trophy’s at the recent Clare wine show! This
riesling is one of the winners and it’s a cracker with a mix of fragrant
citrus peels and terrific mineral character and length. (Irl:
n/i) (UK: Thorman Hunt +44 (0)20 7735 6511)
Kilikanoon
'Oracle' Shiraz 2000, Clare, €G,
90
Intense dark fruit with elegant polished French oak plus dark cherry and
liquorice with good structure and length. (Irl:
n/i) (UK: Thorman Hunt +44 (0)20 7735 6511)
Knappstein
Lenswood Vineyards Pinot Noir 2000, €G,
89
Almost Rioja like with ripe strawberry and cherry fruit, oak and good weight and
length. (Irl: DW) (UK: McKinley Vintners +44 (0)207 928 7300)
Knappstein
Lenswood Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2002, €D,
89
Fragrant lemon and passion fruit on nose and elegant palate, which also shows an
orangey character. (Irl: DW) (UK: McKinley Vintners +44 (0)207 928 7300)
Australian
Wines L - Z
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