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Wine Reviews

Wine Ratings & Price Guide
I score for quality out of 100. For further details of what these scores mean and, lets be honest, my own preferences, so that you can interpret them. click here. Pricing is given as a guide only For further info on the various brackets click here.
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Australian Highlights L-Y

For A-K and commentary on the tastings click here 

 

Leeuwin Estate Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon 1998, W.A 
Quite European in style with a mix of blackcurrant fruit and fragrant tobacco spice with reasonable length. (Irl: SN) (UK: Domaine Direct+44 (0)20 7837 1142)
 

€G

88

Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 1999, W.A.
This must be one of the finest Australian Chardonnay I’ve ever tried. It has a beautiful taut Burgundian style nose of nut and minerals and intense, but again taut or tightly knit palate of orange and peach fruit with butter plus nuts with brilliant structure and length in the manner of a Chassagne-Montrachet premier cru and we know how much they cost, so this is actually good value. (Irl: SN) (UK: Domaine Direct+44 (0)20 7837 1142)
 

€G

93

Leeuwin Estate Art Series Riesling 2001, W.A.
As with all the Art series, this has elegant style with chalky mineral notes complimenting the lemon and lime peel fruit. (Irl: SN) (UK: Domaine Direct+44 (0)20 7837 1142)
 

€F

90

Leeuwin Estate Prelude Vineyards Chardonnay 2001, W.A
Well enough made chardonnay with classy, clever use of oak that adds weight and doesn’t swamp the fruit, but a big step down from their ‘Art Series’. (Irl: SN) (UK: Domaine Direct+44 (0)20 7837 1142)

 

€F

88

Magpie Estate The Election Shiraz 2001 (sample)
Intense dark berry and cherry fruit with nutty, toasty oak and good length. (Irl: u/n) (UK: Noel Young +44 (0)1223 566744)

 

€G

(91)

Magpie Estate 'The Gomersal' Grenache 2000
Quite brown mature wine with leathery, mature fruit that could be taken for a Rioja Reserva style. (Irl: u/n) (UK: Noel Young +44 (0)1223 566744)

 

€G

89

Miranda Varietal Series Durif 2002
Liquorice, pepper and spice – a lot of wine for the money. (Irl:n/I) (UK: Bibbendum +44 (0)20 7449 4110)

 

€B

87

Miranda Varietal Series Merlot 2002
A tank sample but shaping up to be that rare thing ad Aussie merlot worth drinking! (Irl: n/i) (UK: Bibbendum +44 (0)20 7449 4110)
 

€B

(88)

Miranda Varietal Series Riesling 2002
Elegant, clean citrus with a more rounded style than some. (Irl: n/i) (UK: Bibbendum +44 (0)20 7449 4110)

 

€B

87

Mt Horrocks Clare Valley Cordon Cut Riesling 2002 
Once again in 2002 Stephanie Toole has fashioned a stunning, sweet riesling that exudes honey, apricot, candied lemon peel and a luscious sweetness that is cut by crisp acidity. (Irl & UK: Liberty – info@libertywine.co.uk)

 

€G

94

Penfolds St Henri Shiraz 1998
The St Henri style is less in your face than some of the Penfolds stable, as it doesn’t use new oak. Consequently its fruit seems less pure and focused, but there are compensating spicy, fudge like notes in an almost Mediterranean manner that many will enjoy. Very good length. (Irl: FD) (UK: Southcorp Europe +44 (0)20 8917 4600)

 

€G

91

Penfolds 2001 Eden Valley Riesling 2002
Another good Riesling off the Eden Valley production line with its lemon and grapefruit tangy fruit, a little mineral and good length. (Irl: n/i) (UK: Southcorp +44 (0)20 8917 4600

 

€F

89

Penfolds Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz 1999
Coonawarra is relatively cool so this has a more elegant, but still ripe feel to it with good varietal blackberry and pepper fruit plus structure and good length. (Irl: FD) (UK: Southcorp Europe +44 (0)20 8917 4600).
 

€F

90

Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz 1999 
The Bin 28 style is always rich ripe fruit and spice with the sweet vanilla character of American oak and this is no exception with its cherry and liquorice flavours and very good structure and length. (Irl: FD) (UK: Southcorp Europe +44 (0)20 8917 4600)

 

€F

90

Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 1999
Poor man’s grange this is sometimes called and well it might be as it’s a very classy wine with an enticing mix of cherry, blackcurrant and cedar on the nose plus an intense and structured palate with tannin wrapped around rich dark fruit. The best value of Penfolds’ top range wines. (Irl: FD) (UK: Southcorp Europe +44 (0)20 8917 4600)

 

€G

92

Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 1999
A powerful wine that always uses 100% new American oak and it shows on the nose where it mixes with the cassis like fruit. As expected it has a big palate with black cherry, blackcurrant, and a ripe tannin framework that reins it in and prevents it getting blowsy. Needs some time yet. (Irl: FD) (UK: Southcorp Europe +44 (0)20 8917 4600)

 

€G

92-93

Penfolds Grange 1997
Tasted twice and while this is an excellent wine, the mother of all Aussie reds has, for this critic at least, been overtaken by some of its neighbours. There’s a mass of cherry and blackberry fruit, peppery spice and distinctive oak all sitting in different parts of the glass, as it were. Give it another five years and it’ll grow into a fine wine. (Irl: FD) (UK: Southcorp Europe +44 (0)20 8917 4600)

 

€G

94

Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet 2001
An historic brand that’s on good form here and is sourced from Coonawarra and Mclaren Vale hence the cherry and chocolate character typical of the latter allied to some peppery blackberry fruit. (Irl: FD) (UK: Southcorp Europe +44 (0)20 8917 4600)

 

€E

 

87

Penfolds Koonunga Hill Chardonnay 2001
Big, slightly old fashioned style that made Australia’s name in the eighties with rich butterscotch like oak and full tropical fruit notes. Many will enjoy but it seems clumsy and unsubtle now. (Irl: FD) (UK: Southcorp Europe +44 (0)20 8917 4600)

 

€D

86-87

Penfolds Rawson’s Retreat Chardonnay 2002
Very typical of its type with tropical fruit and a touch of cream and toasty oak. Sound, if a little too sweet for my taste. (Irl: FD) (UK: Southcorp Europe +44 (0)20 8917 4600)

 

€C

82

Penfolds Rawson’s Retreat Merlot 2001
Tastes of merlot with its light raisin and plum fruit and mid length palate. (Irl: FD) (UK: Southcorp Europe +44 (0)20 8917 4600)

 

€C

84

Penfolds Thomas Hyland Cabernet Sauv. 2001
Black cherry, cassis and oak on the nose with a palate that is ripe but tannic showing cassis and chocolate fruit. ((Irl: FD) (UK: Southcorp Europe +44 (0)20 8917 4600)

 

€E

89-90

Penfolds Thomas Hyland Chardonnay 2002
Barrels that didn’t quite get into Yattarna form the basis of this very classy unfiltered, barrel-fermented beauty. Very new wave with elegant orange or peach cool climate fruit, buts and butter plus cream, from lees stirring and a zesty finish. (Irl: FD) (UK: Southcorp Europe +44 (0)20 8917 4600)

 

€E

89

Penfolds Thomas Hyland Shiraz 2001 
Classic blackberry and pepper nose echoed on the palate with a little cherry too and fairly good length. (Irl: FD) (UK: Southcorp Europe +44 (0)20 8917 4600)

 

€E

88-89

Peter Lehmann Eight Songs 1998
Sadly, I don’t know anything about the grapes or name of this wine but as for taste it delivers pretty meaty, tar, prune and pepper scented fruit. (Irl: CM) (UK: Peter Lehmann Wines UK +44 (0)1227 731353)

€G

91

Peter Lehmann Mentor 1998
70% cabernet and unsure of the rest of this supple cassis scented but quite big and meaty red. (Irl: CM) (UK: Peter Lehmann Wines UK +44 (0)1227 731353)
 

€G

90

Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz 1997
Impressive array of flavours and concentration with cherry, plum, prune and leather on show, but without the exceptional quality of some vintages of this wine. (Irl: CM) (UK: Peter Lehmann Wines UK +44 (0)1227 731353)
 

€G

90

Pewsey Vale The Contours' Museum Release Riesling 1997 (Stelvin)
A perfume grenade on the nose creates a sense of shock and awe. Petrol, honey, mineral. Lime zest, lemon peel, texture, length and much more – all that a great Riesling should be. (Irl: CD) (UK: Negociants UK +44 (0)1582 462859)
 

€G

95

Pierro Vineyard Chardonnay 2000 
Rich nuts and butter flavour but oak is over the top for me. (Irl: DW) (UK: Milton Sandford +44 (0)1628 829449)
 

€G

87-88

Pierro Vineyard LTC 2001
LTC means a little touch of chardonnay in this otherwise semillon / sauvignon blend that shows plenty of ripe gooseberry fruit and a tangy zesty finish. (Irl: DW) (UK: Milton Sandford +44 (0)1628 829449)
 

€C

88

Plunkett Reserve Shiraz 2000
Rich cherry and menthol fruit, quite elegant. Not imported into Ireland as far as I know, but with a name like this it should be. (UK Alliance Wine Co. Ltd. +44 (0)1595 506060)
 

€E

89

Salena Estate Petit Verdot 2001
Spicy dark fruit with liquorice and medium body and length. (Irl: u/n) (UK: Patriache: +44 (0) 20 7381 2023).
 

?

85

Saltram Metala Shiraz Cabernet 2001
Very dark colour and fruit character with good length. (Ir: Gb) (UK Berringer Blass +44 (20)88438411)
 

 €?

89

Scotchmans Hill Norfolk Vineyard Pinot Noir 2001
Elegant cool climate new world style with perfumed cherry fruit and spice from oak. Good length. (Irl: u/n) (UK: Orbital Wines +44 (0)1858 570600)

€u/n

90

Scotchmans Hill Sutton Vineyard Chardonnay 2000
Very smart, Burgundian style wine with honey, butter, nuts, mineral character, structure and length. (Irl: u/n) (UK: Orbital Wines +44 (0)1858 570600)
 

€u/n

91

Stefano Lubiana Riesling 2001, Tasmania
Quite stunning wine with a gorgeous array of citrus fruits on nose and palate including grapefruit, lime and orange with structure and fabulous length. It can only get better and probably merit a higher score. (Irl: u/n) (UK: Noel Young +44 (0)1223 566744)
 

€G

93

Tahbilk Marsanne 2001 Goulburn
Some interesting lemon fruit but seems lighter than in previous vintages. Perhaps time will fill it out. (Irl: CM) (UK: P. Lehmann Group)
 

€C

86

Tahbilk Reserve Shiraz 1996 
Interesting to try a relatively mature Australian wine as it has intense, ripe, almost Port like fruit, prunes, plum, good length and leathery spice suggesting age. (Irl: CM) (UK: P. Lehmann Group)
 

€G

90

Torbreck Descendant 2001
David Powell’s take on C
ôte Rôtie perhaps as it’s basically shiraz with 7% viognier thrown in, which adds perfume, pear, apricot and elegance and to a wine with intense dark fruit, ripe supple tannin and excellent length. (Irl: OB) (UK: Thorman Hunt +44 (0)20 7735 6511)
 

€G

92

Torbreck Juveniles 2002
Named after the Paris wine bar and also appropriate, as it’s a young unoaked style made from 60% Grenache, 20% mourvedre and 20% shiraz. There’s quite intense black pastille fruit and a spicy black olive character and good length. (Irl: OB) (UK: Thorman Hunt +44 (0)20 7735 6511)
 

€G

90

Torbreck Marsanne/Roussanne/Viognier 2001
Attractive Rhone like character of nuts, honey and red apple skin with mid to good length. (Irl: OB) (UK: Thorman Hunt +44 (0)20 7735 6511)

€E

87

Torbreck Run Rig 1999
Made from shiraz wines that are over a century old. Torbreck’s flagship is as good as its reputation. Fine spict, French oak adds polish to a glorious mix of smoked bacon, cherry and blackberry fruit with fantastic texture and persistence. (Irl: OB) (UK: Thorman Hunt +44 (0)20 7735 6511)
 

€G

95

Torbreck The Factor 2000
100% shiraz, from very old vines, this beauty has a stunning nose of smoked bacon and ground black pepper with a mass of rich dark fruit and cured meats on the exceptionally long palate. Big, but balanced. (Irl: OB) (UK: Thorman Hunt +44 (0)20 7735 6511)

€G

94

Torbreck The Steading 2001
A similar Rhone style blend to the Juveniles cuvee but with oak, which adds a little weight, focus and length. (Irl: OB) (UK: Thorman Hunt +44 (0)20 7735 6511)
 

€G

91

Torbreck Woodcutter’s Red 2001
Maker David Powell suggests that this shiraz based wine is like a young St. Joseph and with its blackberry fruit, smoked bacon spice and firm-ish acid. He has a point. 
 

€E

89

Wakefield Estate Riesling 2002 (stelvin)
Lovely orange (seems like a trait of the Watervale district to me) and lime fruit. More filling than some but still fresh and with good length. (Irl: KW) (UK: Stratford’s +44 (0) 1628 810605)
 

€C

89

Wakefield Estate Semillon 2001
Heavy on the oak at the moment, which I always feel is a mistake with Semillon. Time will tell. (Irl: KW) (UK: Stratford’s +44 (0) 1628 810605)

€C

86

Wakefield St. Andrews Riesling 1996 
Age in this Clare riesling adds a glorious element to an already high-class wine. This has a stunningly attractive nose lemon zest and mineral with a little kerosene and palate with lemon peel flavours, very good length and acidity that keeps it all focused and very long. (Irl: KW) (UK: Stratford’s +44 (0) 1628 810605)
 

€F

93

Wakefield St. Andrews Shiraz 1999 
The top end of the Wakefield range and it’s easy to see why. This has a wonderful nose with ripe bramble fruit, pepper and smoked bacon plus creamy cassis on the palate, terrific length and acidity that keeps it in balance. (Irl: KW) (UK: Stratford’s +44 (0) 1628 810605)
 

€G

92

Wirra Wirra Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2002
Good fresh herbaceous grapefruit and melon fruit.  
 

€u/n

88

Wirra Wirra Hand Picked Riesling 200 (Stelvin) 
Good and citric but lighter than the best of them. (Irl: CD) (UK: Negociants UK +44 (0)1582 462859)
 

€u/n

88

Wirra Wirra McLaren Vale Shiraz 2000
Pretty intense, plum, cherry with a touch of menthol fruit plus prune and oak. Good length. (Irl: CD) (UK: Negociants UK +44 (0)1582 462859)
 

€u/n

89

Xanadu Merlot 2000
Good ripe varietal fruit, which is an achievement for merlot in Ausrtralia. It shows plum, berry and oak character. (Irl: OB) (UK: +44 (0)1342 318282)
 

€F

88

Xanadu Shiraz 2000 
Attractive ripe, rich, peppery fruit. (Irl: OB) (UK: +44 (0)1342 318282)
 

€D

87

Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier 2001
Delicious apricot and nut character supported by good length. (Irl: CD) (UK: Negociants UK +44 (0)1582 462859)
 

€u/n

90

Yalumba Hand Picked Riesling 2001 (Stelvin)
Chalky mineral character mingles with lemon and lime zest fruit. (Irl: CD) (UK: Negociants UK +44 (0)1582 462859)

€u/n

90

Yalumba 'The Virgilus' Viognier 2001
Yalumba’s flagship viognier does them proud with its intense varietal character showing dried apricot, pear and but that is fleshed out by creamy oak adding to the innate richness and length. (Irl: CD) (UK: Negociants UK +44 (0)1582 462859)
 

€G