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Wine Reviews - Contents

Wine Ratings & Price Guide
I score for quality out of 100. For further details of what these scores mean and, lets be honest, my own preferences, so that you can interpret them. click here. Pricing is given as a guide only For further info on the various brackets click here.
Importers - Contact details for Irish importers
 
Top of the Pops - Comprehensive Champagne Review
The Champagne Information Bureau recently held their biggest ever tasting in London with about 150 wines on show. I didn't manage them all but got round most of those that I wanted to see. There are also a few notes for  other events over the last few months thrown in too. In general it confirmed my opinion of who is good and who isn't. There were few surprises amongst the big names, but it was interesting to try a few new names. 

Sadly the task of collating prices and distributors has proved beyond me for now, but if you have to ask the price it's safe to say you can't afford it. If you need desperately to find the agent drop me a line and I can probably help.
 
Billecart Salmon Brut Reserve NV
Not quite as elegant as previous bottles, a touch earthy even, but has some cherry fruit too.
 

86

Billecart Salmon Brut Rosé
A regular high achiever in blind tastings of roses the currant crop has attractive strawberry, red currant and cream fruit. 
 

88

Billecart Salmon Cuvée Nicolas-Francois Billecart 1997
A very classy wine with a toasty nose made more elegant by notes of peach plus cream on the palate. Not huge but really more-ish.
 

93

Bollinger Grand Année 1996 
Almost a parody of the Bolly style with very heavy toast and honey on the nose and palate allied to terrific length. Is it too much of a good thing? 
 
 

92

Bollinger Grand Année Rosé 1996 
Very different ball game to the regular wines as this has sharp, bordering on tart, cherry fruit and will come as a shock to the uninitiated. 
  

86

Bollinger Special Cuvée Brut NV
In imperious form honeyed toasty nose and mouth filling palate with honey, mineral, nuts and great length. 
 

91

Bruno Paillard Brut 1995
Fairly rich style with clear bottle age – biscuit and cream character and good length. Lovely. 
 

90

Bruno Paillard Brut Première Cuvée NV
Fine fruit and yeast notes and good length. Consistently good.
 

88

Bruno Paillard Réserve Privée NV
A really interesting wine with peach, butter and biscuit on the nose while firm, but not sour, acid adds length. 
 

91

Canard Duchêne Brut NV
Aperitif style with its zesty. Lively lemon sherbet and biscuit bouquet and mid weight.
 

86

Charles Heidseick Brut NV, mise en cave 1997
A slightly muted tight-knit nose but palate has more expansive butter and toast characteristics. 
 

89

Charles Heidseick Brut NV, mise en cave 1998
A house so hot it’s on fire – this is beautiful NV that’s more like smart Burgundy with bubbles with its elegant cream and nut nose and palate, elegant yet good body and length. Bravo.
 

91

Charles Heidseick Champagne Charlie 1985
Seriously rich buttered brioche and chocolate flavours and great length and texture.
  

91-92

DeCastellane Brut 1995
Curious, distinctive nose that Liam Campbell (the Dubliner) said reminded him of oysters and he could well be right. 
  

87?

DeCastellane Brut Croix Rouge
Biscuit and cherry on nose plus something mineral (the oysters again?) with medium rich palate. 
  

87

Deutz Brut Classic NV
Buttered cream cracker on the nose with lemon wafer on the palate – so it’s about elegance and autolysis. Lovely.
 

89

Drappier Blanc de Blancs 1995
Textbook b de b with its classy butter and lemon character and lovely fresh texture.
 

91

Drappier Brut Carte d’Or NV
Drappier use a lot of red grapes and it shows in the cherry and rhubarb fruit in this medium bodied wine.
 

87

Drappier Grand Sendree
A full bodied yet elegant style with rich toast and cherry aromas.  And long finish. 
   

91

Fleurie Père et Fils Brut 1996 (Bio-dynamique)
Lighter, or is it just more elegant than the NV with its cherry or rhubarb like fruit; either way prefer the NV.
  

87

Fleurie Père et Fils But NV (Bio-dynamique)
Pop a cork and save the world with this first rate right on fizz with a touch of biscuit on the nose plus creamy cherry fruit on the palate.
  

89

Gatinois Grand Cru Ay 1997
A new name for me but from a very reliable UK agent. It’s Bollinger like in its gutsy rich toasty style. Many will love it. Drink 2003 - 2010. 
  

90

Gosset Brut Exellence NV
Curious but attractive chalky character plus red fruit and fair length. 
   

88

Gosset Grand Millésime 1996
Fuller and softer than some 1996 wines with buttered toast on the nose and full bodied smooth texture. Drink 2003 - 2015.
   

90

H. Blin Brut Tradition NV
Light nose, palate a bit vegetal, medium length. I’ve had better bottles. 
  

83

Heidsieck Monopole ‘Blue Top’
Dry Monopole with a new name and in fair shape with elegant lightly biscuity fruit, if a little on the slight side. Tried it again as a snipe on Cityjet and had similar experience.
  

85

Heidsieck Monopole Premier Crus
Classy than the blue top, as it should be, with a creamy mineral palate also showing some redcurrant fruit. 
  

89

Henriot Brut Souverain NV
Disappointingly simple and green. 
  

81

Jaquart Brut de Nominée NV
NV but I’m told it’s mostly 1996 and it has what appears characteristic for me of the year, which is body and acidity and length allied to attractive red fruits. Drink 2005 - 2012.
  

91

Jaquart Brut Mosaïque 1996
Proper vintage character and a jump up from the NV with a hot of toast, butter and lemon, medium rich body and firm but not harsh acid that suggests it will age. Drink 2005 - 2012.
  

90

Jaquart Brut Mosaïque NV
Elegant if light nose with lenon and biscuit all of which is echoed on the mid weight elegant palate. 
 

86

Jaquesson Avize Grand Cru Blanc de Blanc 1995
A good quality wine with rhubarb fruit allied to toast and cream, good length and balancing acidity.
  

89

Jaquesson Brut Perfection NV
Light and elegant if a bit one dimensional. 
 

84

Joseph Perrier Cuvée Royal Brut 1996
Toasty character and fruit on the nose while the palate has fair length with red apple fruit.
 

87

Joseph Perrier Cuvée Royal Brut NV
Slightly clumsy, earthy mid weight wine. 
 

84

Krug Grand Cuvée
Despite the stratospheric price tag I have to say that the Krug style isn’t one I like as much as some. They use a lot of pinot meurnier in the blend, which can taste a bit cabbage like, as this does. Mind you there’s also attractive toast and butter and cherry fruit and very good length. 
 

88

Lanson Brut NV
Tasted two or three tines of late and there’s always a sour/sweet character that suggests unripe wine is being masked by dosage plus when it’s at it’s best a little cheery and toffee. You’ve a right to expect better of a grand marque Champagne.
 

82-84

Lanson Brut Vintage 1995
A very toasty, mature style but good. 
 

88

Lanson Noble Cuvée 1989
A very classy toasty drop just starting to show its age.
  

89

Larmandier Bernier Cramant Grand Cru Vielle Vignes Extra Brut 1998
New to me. The names a mouthful, but so’s the wine with delicious elegant buttery texture and good length.
  

90

Laurent Perrier Brut NV
Tasted a few times it is always a mid weight elegant wine with a touch of biscuity bottle age character alongside cherryish fruit. Pretty good.
  

87

Laurent Perrier Brut Vintage 1993
The extra richness and weight of flavour, which is heavy with digestive biscuit butter and cherry makes this classic vintage style. Well done. 
   

90

Laurent Perrier Grand Siecle La Cuvée
Attractive cherry and biscuit fruit on the nose plus elegant palate with a surprisingly fresh citric finish for a wine blended from wines taken from 1988, 1990 and 1993.
 

91

Laurent Perrier Rosé NV
The rosé market leader is on good form with raspberry and strawberry fruit as scented and fragrant as Mary Archer. 

87

Laurent Perrier Ultra Brut NV
‘Ultra’ means that no dosage has been added and it shows in the elegant taught lemon and cherry style that some may find too lean for their taste. 
 

89

Le Mesnil Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru 1996
A little bit more weight and biscuit character than the NV but the same classy lemon/butter fruit and acid. 
 

91

Le Mesnil Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru NV
Class tells here with classic quality chardonnay character of lemon and butter allied to firm but good acidity and length.
 

89

Louis Roederer Brut 1996
Real vintage style with quite a full body showing honey and cherry and a firm acidity giving structure and length. Still a baby. Drink 2005 - 2015.
  

92

Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV
Elegant light biscuit and cherry on the nose with cherry fruit again on the palate and notes of cream and pear. Good length.
  

88

Moët & Chandon Brut 1996
Fairly light fresh nose with some creamy cherry fruit on the palate and mid length. Should be more class on a vintage wine.
  

87

Moët & Chandon Brut Imperial NV
When a Champagne sells as much as this one consistency can be difficult and I’ve had lean green samples of this, but the one at the Champagne Information Bureau (CIF) tasting was better than expected, so credit where it’s due for a wine with tart cherry fruit on the nose and creamy biscuit character on the palate and a fresh finish. 
  

83-86

Moët & Chandon Brut Rose NV
Quote stalky fresh red fruit are the main flavours here with fair length. 
  

86

Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut 1995
Tried this two or three times and always enjoyed its attractive biscuit and toffee utter character. 
 

90

Mumm Cordon Rouge NV
Tasted a couple of times this is better than a few years ago but a notch off the big tine with mid weight toasty fruit but it lacks the style and elegance of really good NV. Some bottles lighter than others .
 

85-86

Mumm Cordon Rouge Rosé NV
Attractive if simple raspberry fruit. 
  

84

Mumm de Cramant, NV
All chardonnay and shows with the elegant butter and zesty lemon and apple fruit. Really lovely.
 

90

Nicolas Feuillate Brut Réserve Particulière NV
A surprisingly classy, creamy textured and nut scented sparkler with good length. 
 

88

Nicolas Feuillate Brut 1996
Surprisingly not as good for me at any rate as the NV. There’s an array of attractive flavours such as cherry and pear but also marmite like character that suggests it’s ageing faster than it should. 
  

87

Nicolas Feuillate Palmes d’Or 1995
Good autolytic character on the nose with biscuity notes plus honey and fudge on the palate. Mid to good length. Not really de-luxe standard. 
 

88

Pannier Brut Sélection NV
Pannier is usually one of the less expensive brands and there’s a good reason, you get what you pay for as I find it light, simple and sharp even. 
  

81

Perrier Jouët Blasson Rosé NV
Lots of red currant fruit but a little on the sharp side for me. 
 

85

Perrier Jouët Brut 1996
Tasted twice. This has a classic digestive biscuit like character on the nose from yeast autolysis plus attractive cherry fruit plus good length and a clean finish. 
  

89

Perrier Jouët Brut NV
Last year I had a great bottle when researching wine republic 2003, the latest sample was sadly nothing special and even a little too sharp. 
 

84-87

Pierre Gimmonet 1er cru Brut Fleuron 1996
Quite a serious wine with all the right components – buttered toast on the nose plus a rich yet firm palate with lemon curd on toast character. Lovely. Drink 2005 - 2012.
 

90

Pierre Gimmonet 1er cru NV
Butter, lemon and biscuit, so typical of blanc de blanc with an elegant lemon wafer nose. Good value.
  

89

Piper Heidseick Brut 1995
Something odd on nose – rancid nut? 
 

86?

Piper Heidseick Brut NV
Sound enough, but light simple and a bit too much sweetening, so it will probably have mass appeal.
  

84

Pol Roger Brut 1995
Not a heavyweight but attractive nevertheless with long creamy fruit.  
 

89

Pol Roger Brut Réserve NV
A light, elegant creamy style with decent length. 
  

88

Pommery Brut 1992
Holding up really well and streets better than the NV with attractive fresh buttery fruit. 
  

89

Pommery Brut NV
Light apple nose while palate a little earthy and sweet with dosage trying to mask deficiencies. Best sipped by models in night clubs though a straw from the snipe size. 
  

82

Pommery Cuvée Louise 
High percentage of chardonnay gives this a classy elegant style and this is what those models should be sipping. 
  

90

Ruinart R de Ruinart 1995
Toasty slightly toffee-ish nose suggesting age. Palate has good length. Quite distinctive, but not sure if I really like it.
  

88

Ruinart R de Ruinart Brut NV
Toast plus a note of pear and cabbage on the nose. Palate is more attractive with a rich creamy character. 
  

86

Ruinart Rosé NV
Mid weight raspberry fruit. 
 

86

Taittinger Brut NV
As ever Taittinger was elegant with butter and lemon fruit and terrific length. Lovely and better than last bottle I tried. 
 

88-90

Taittinger Vintage 1996
Tasted twice and varied between heavenly rich buttered toast and elegant, tight and light. Somebody send me a third bottle and I can give it a best of three score!

88 - 93

Thiénot Brut 1995
Elegant, light but long. Drink 2003 - 2010.
  

89

Thiénot Brut NV
Elagant smart stuff with good to medium length.
  

87

Veuve Clicquot Demi Sec NV
Cherry pie like with a dash of cream and sweet cherry-ish pinot noir fruit and fair length.
 

84

Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 1995
Tasted twice recently, Clicquot’s deluxe wine is deliberately elegant rather than powerful as the vintage is. It has a beautiful fine citrus note mingled with buttered croissant on both nose and palate and great length. Drink 2003 - 2010.

 

90

Veuve Clicquot Vintage Brut 1995
Tasted twice and each tie a superb wine with beautiful creamy buttered toast on the nose (the French would say brioche) or Bollinger like with a long palate plus a lemony acidity that keeps it fresh. Drink 2003 - 2012.

  

93

Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label NV
The nose is quite elegant with a citrus character mixed with digestive biscuit whilst the palate is richer and creamier with good length. 
 

88

 
Last updated
Saturday, 14 January 2006 06:11 PM


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