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The graph of French
wine market share in recent years has done a great impression of a map of
a world speed skiing championship race as it’s steep and downhill all
the way. Nevertheless Superquinn persists with its French wine sale. I
remember ten years ago this was a serious affair with the Blackrock store
in particular having floor stacks of first growth clarets and a surge in
customers and sales, but in recent years it seemed less relevant, indeed
as did Superquinn’s wine offering in general. But hold that obituary! A
new team is turning things around. David Orr has been recruited form
Dunnes drinks buying team and Sunday Tribune wine columnist John Wilson
has been brought in to assist with the wine selection process. There is
much to do but the French sale is a sign that things are going in the
right direction. A recent press tasting had a very high hit rate,
especially for the whites. Here are a few highlights from my notes to help
you make the most of it all. Apologies for lack of detail but I simply
don’t have time type all the detail – but get the sale brochure and it
will be clear which wines I refer to.
Loire Whites
The Muscadet at €6.99 (86/100) is a surprising pleasure and a bargain.
Lots of Loire Sauvignon based wines are offered and the Haut Poitou
€7.49 (87/100) is reliable as ever. Of the three Sancerre/Pouilly Fumés,
the most expensive at €14.99 Sancerre Merlin-Cherrier at 90/100 edges
out the P. Fumé €11.99 (89/100) and Sancerre Le Chatillet €11.99
(88/100). All show some mineral character and good fruit.
Alsace
The Riesling at €7.99 just may be the star of the show with explosive
orange and lemon fruit rating 90/100 and don’t worry it’s dry if you
are wary of Riesling. Trimbachs Pinot Blanc, €9.69 is as reliable as
ever, 87/100.
Southwest & Languedoc Whites
The Le Baume Viognier is good and the Viognier (88/100) is a bargain at
€6.89 while the ‘Winemaker’s Selection White’,€9.69 (89/100)
reminds me of a very smart Rhone white with nougat and, orange and apple
flavours. Domaine Begude Chardonnay €7.49 (87/100) has a crisp cool
climate feel and shows that organic or even biodynamic need not be
expensive. Bergerac is a neglected area in wine sales in Ireland, the
white one on offer here €8.49, (87/100) is worth discovering
White Burgundy
Fortin is a new name to me but there are family connections to domains I
do know and respect. Their St Veran is smart and elegant €11.99,
(87/100) while their Pouilly Fuissé €17.99, 93/100 is a real stunner
with a gorgeous rich texture and great length. Charles Vienot can be
variable but their 2006 Chablis €9.99 (87/100) is on the ball althought
their Macon Lugny €8.49 (86/100) rates a point less than better known
and reliable Louis Latour’s version €9.99 (87/100)
Red Bordeaux
This area always accounts for a big chunk of the sale and it’s a
difficult to get right but prices here it should be said are very keen and
quality fairly good in general. In descending order this was how I rated
them. Ch Le Bosq St Estephe 2004 €24.99 (88/100), Ch Beaumont Haut Medoc
2004 (88/100), Ch David Medoc 2005 €9.99 (88/100), Ch Pey du Pont Medoc
€9.99 (87/100), Ch Haut La Perriere Cotes de Castillon 2005 €8.99
(86-87/100), Ch Pindefleurs St Emilion GC 2003 €15.99 (86/100), Ch
Grisson Bordeaux Superieur 2005 €6.99 (85/100), Ch Le Mayne Bordeaux
Superieur 2005,€7.99 (85/100), Ch Teyssier Puisguinn St Emilion 2005
€10.99, (82/100) and lmy least liked was the most expensive - the Cru
Classe Haut Medoc 2004 €24.99 (80/100) which I felt might have a slight
brett taint. Best value of all that was probably the Ch David at only
€9.99 which is quite a serious wine that would age happily for a few
years if required.
Rhone Reds
Domaine Gres St Vincent €8.19 (86/100) was sound, while the press
tasting bottle of popular Guigal Cotes du Rhone 2004 €9.99 disappointed,
a subsequent bottle tried at home was back on form and rated 87/100. Le
Versadin Crozes Hermitage €9.99 was ok at 86/100 while Jaboulet’s
version was a point better and a euro more. The Vacqueyras is cheap at
€11.99, but doesn’t really deliver at 86/100. Of the two
Chateauneuf-du-papes on offer, the more expensive Dom. Alain Grangeon
€18.99, 92/100 justifies its premium over the Blasson du Prince €15.99
(89/100). Domaine Cristia Grenache rated 84/100 and costs €7.99.
Red Burgundy
Louis Latour Pinot Noir does what it says on the tin, as it were at
€10.99 and 86/100 as does the Fleurie in the sale at €11.99 and
87/100.
Southern and
Languedoc Reds
Ch Clotte de Montaine Cremailh Coteux du Languedoc 2005 €11.99 (90/100)
isn’t a catchy name but hunt it out as it’s a gem and has great depth
and length for the price. Le Baume’s Syrah is good value at only €6.89
and 86/100 and their Winemaker’s Selevtion red is a notch better at
87/100 but costs more at €9.69. Somebody texted the Moncreiff show while
I was on to say they had bought 5 cases of Fitou and how was it? Well I
thought it a bit herbal and simple and rated 84/100 at €7.99. Avoid the
Fronton €8.99, (72/100) as it seems bretty to me.
Loire Red
I liked the Saumur Champigny €10.99, 87/100, but will you, as by
definition it has quite fresh acidity but it’s typical of its type?
Sparkling and
Champagne
Sadly I arrived late at the press tasting so have no notes on these but H.
Blin NV Champagne is usually a little green in my past experience but the
vintage 2000 looks like good value. Anything from Le Mesnil is usually
really elegant and wonderful but I haven’t tried this one but would
certainly expect it to be better than say Moet & Chandon at about the
same price. Haven’t tried the Saumur.
Rose
Finally the single vin de pays syrah rose tasted odd at the press event
but a subsequent bottle was a pleasure, €6.74 and 85/100..
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